Field blends to fine French cuvées — Why blended wines are a beautiful thing
Out-there grape varieties to frozen rosé — the wine world is rife with fads. Thankfully, blended wines aren’t one of them. Bringing several grape varieties together in one harmonious glass, blends have been around as long as wine itself.
But while blends themselves aren’t new, the approach to making them has evolved considerably. Today, it’s passion and preference — rather than pure necessity — that steers winemakers towards blends. And building aroma, flavour, and texture in new and novel ways makes for interesting drinking for the consumer, too. But let’s start this story at the beginning — with the humble field blend.
Old-world field blends
Centuries ago, European field blends were the norm. Essentially bulk-market wines, they were made from a hodge-podge of grape varieties all grown together in the same field, or vineyard. Everything would be harvested, fermented, and blended together, with none of the fuss of modern-day winemaking.
Farmers used this strategy to maintain consistent quality. Some varieties brought fruit sweetness, others might add colour or acidity. But it was also a nifty way of ensuring wine production every year, rain or shine. If one variety got stricken by rot or failed to ripen, they could fall back on another.
Though uncommon, this practice is still used today. Austrian Wiener Gemischter Satz is the mother of all field blends. Historically served in jugs at Vienna’s heurige wine taverns, it’s a white blend that’s received a modern makeover — and a premium DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) classification to match.
Classic French, Italian, and Spanish blends
Growers soon caught on that different grape varieties would thrive in different areas. It’s this sentiment that forms the basis of the French appellation system.
Fabled regions like Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne are all governed by the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlées) regulations. Since the first half of the 20th century, these laws have dictated which grape varieties go into which wines. So, in some ways, it’s France’s way of protecting their legacy of top-tier vino. Of preserving their tried-and-tested blends for years to come.
Under the regulations, a Bordeaux red may only be produced from (a combination of) cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot, and malbec. Likewise, Bordeaux whites — from the Graves area — are always a blend of semillon, sauvignon blanc, and/or muscadelle. And then there’s the iconic Rhone Valley blend — grenache, shiraz, and mourvèdre (or Mataro, as we Aussies often call it).
And Champagne? Though not always a blend, France’s esteemed fizz may only be produced from chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grapes — with tiny portions of pinot blanc, pinot gris, arbane, and petite meslier permitted. And importantly, the whole production must be carried out in the cluster of villages that make up the Champagne region in Northern France.
Italy and Spain have similar systems. To be called a Chianti, a wine must be made from predominantly sangiovese grapes grown in the Chianti region in Tuscany, Italy. Other Tuscan grape varieties such as canaiolo, colorino, ciliegiolo, and mammolo make up smaller portions. Likewise, tempranillo must form the base of Spanish Rioja, with garnacha (grenache), mazuelo (carignan) and graciano making up the balance.
Modern Australian blends — for balance, drinkability, and personality
For winemakers, blends can be a wonderful outlet for creativity. Just as a chef can make a recipe his own by adjusting the quantity of certain ingredients, a winemaker can inject personality and point-of-difference through blending.
And as Australian producers aren’t bound by strict provincial regulations, we can experiment with composition as much as we please. Or take inspiration from tried-and-tested European blends. Whatever the approach, a good blend should always bring together the best attributes of each individual grape variety. And finding just the right balance — between aromatics, acidity, fruit sweetness, and body — is key.
That last little addition — of marsanne, say, for waxiness, or sauvignon blanc for crisp acidity — is what rounds everything off so nicely. It’s what makes the wine sing. And it’s what makes blends so drinkable.
Short Stories celebrates blends in all of their forms. We make classic blends our way, blends that scream of our regions, and (coming this year) field blends with a contemporary spin. For us, it’s blends — rather than single varietals — that best capture the soul and spirit of a place. Cheers!
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Cover Illustration by Amy Hogarth
Amy is a Scottish illustrator who injects colour and comedy into a wide range of subjects, from cats raiding fridges to Boris Johnson’s political blunders. She also happens to be one of our best mates. Check her out on Instagram via @Amy_Hogarth_Art.
